Back to my Roots

tiny blue waves

After a crazy week in London launching the book it was quite calming to get back home and back to my roots with the Mamas Surf Club on friday. A bit too calm in fact – we had the sort of waves I dreamt of when we first started in 2005, tiny to non-existent. For a while we had another motto alongside ‘Out of the kitchen and into the Surf’. ‘Never too small for the Mamas.’

But I’ll say the words I never thought would never cross my lips- it was too small!  But great to see the girls and give a copy of the book to Johanna, who set up the Mamas and changed my life forever by teaching me to do a press-up.

This was the moment when I volunteered to try out her personal training programme and she’s just found out that my sporting experience is pretty non- existent…..

‘Johanna might be regretting her choice of guinea pig, but she must feel better when I get on the floor to do the press-up test because I do a pretty good impression of a guinea pig. I lie there contemplating the physical impossibility of raising my bodyweight on my flimsy front paws, making little squeaky noises. ‘Give me carrots. Give me hay. Give me beer.’ As I said, having made it through four decades plus without ever having to do a press-up, I thought I had dodged the bullet.

I gave her the book, and she had a present for me – 10 sessions at the gym. ‘You’ve got to look hot for the tour’ she laughed.

I’m kind of tempted to use it today – I wonder if she’d ever find out if I just used the hammam and the sauna?


back to my roots

Me and Johanna about to tackle the mighty ripple


Surf papa Christophe with this summers must-have beach read


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