Olatua Beach. First swim of the year without neoprene – my crazy girls made me do it, which is the price you pay for bringing them up on the beach in Baile na nGall and chucking them in the sea from an early age ……. It may look warm, but this is the time of year when the snow melts in the Pyrenees and finds its way down to the ocean, its colder than midwinter – I lasted about […]
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Mamas Surf Club in the early days – we started the club in 2005 with the motto ‘Out of the Kitchen and into the Surf’. In the beginning I’m not sure that we believed I would really learn to surf, or whether it was more about escaping our everyday lives. Running away to sea for a few hours, leaving children, husbands, shopping lists and artistic dilemmas on the shore and behaving like teenagers for the afternoon. But once you take a wave […]
Winter is famously wild the Bay of Biscay sailors sing sea shanties about it, surfers in Hawaii and Australia are on standby, ready to jump on a plane when they get the call that the Belharra wave is breaking at over fifty foot. The swells came in week after week month after month, beaches were closed, people and cars were swept off the promenades, the cliffs crumbled onto beaches. An oil tanker was snapped in half on a breakwater. Monster tides flooded […]
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Surf Mama