Mamas Surf Club in the early days – we started the club in 2005 with the motto ‘Out of the Kitchen and into the Surf’. In the beginning I’m not sure that we believed I would really learn to surf, or whether it was more about escaping our everyday lives. Running away to sea for a few hours, leaving children, husbands, shopping lists and  artistic dilemmas on the shore and behaving like teenagers for the afternoon. But once you take a wave your hooked, we did learn to surf and it changed our lives.

On this afternoon I was stuck on the beach like a landlubber – I was still a bit of an earthmother at heart and I’d pulled my back getting a banana loaf out of the oven…..

I should have paid more attention to the Mamas motto… ‘Out of the Kitchen and Into the Surf’