I arrived in London at my mother’s house and there by the door were these two wooden bellyboards, they brought back vague memories of childhood holidays in Lyme Regis. Stormy days when the whole family would pack a picnic and head off to Charmouth beach to catch the waves under the cliffs, Mary Anning’s dinosaurs embedded in the mud. The children were only allowed waist deep half terrified by threats of currents that would whisk us away, half ecstatic to […]

Categories: Blog, Photos, surf mama • Tags: 80 something, surfing, women surfing