I’m a forty something female surfer (& fine art graduate) & I really enjoyed this book. It starts in the Kingdom of Kerry (last time I surfed there I broke my nose). And travels to Biarritz (last time I surfed there I had a prolapsed disc).
Her journey from earth mother (whose husband surfs) to surf mama is a really fun read. So much rings true too. Sometimes you sit out back in the line up & go “Oh god I’m the only woman.” & sometimes you sit out back & go “Whey hey I’m the only woman!”
I also liked the bit where she thinks about finding a boyfriend. He’d have to be a surfer, but not better than her, but not a beginner either. Can I also add, that a long boarder/ short boarder mix is not ideal either!
As she gains more experience her passion for surfing grows. And as many of the reviews show here, if you are not already a surfer, you will want to become one!
It’s refreshing to read a book by a woman who surfs that’s not about competitions, or huge waves or how to be bionic.
I look forward to a book about her future adventures surfing around the world…