I was getting pretty stressed out by my knee injury recently, finding it hard to jump lightly to my feet on my board – in surf lingo my take off totally sucked.

So I decided to avoid stress and go bellyboarding using this elegant lady as a role model ( you will notice that she’s surfing straight towards the brewery). It was not really fun and gave me my hit of adrenalin rush- all waves are overhead when your lying down! I also got one of my best compliments ever in the line-up.

Wow, one of the other surfers said, You’re like a bird gliding across the surface of the wave.

I might have suggested we got together for some sardines later, if he hadn’t disappeared behind a cascade of saltwater, as surfers tend to do…….